Although it looks almost like soapstone, our PaperStone composite countertop material can be cut, shaped and sanded with woodworking tools. These tips will help you achieve good results:

Work in a well-ventilated area to protect yourself from any fumes that could result when the friction of tools heats the plastic, and wear eye protection and a respirator that works to protect yourself against dust.

Like wood, PaperStone should be cut dry. Speed up the cutting rate if you detect excess heat.

Fully support PaperStone before you begin cutting. If you don’t, the blade could bind when the slab’s weight shifts as the cut proceeds. We recommend using a carbide-tipped blade in a circular saw. Use a triple-chip blade if possible.

To shape PaperStone with a router, use a carbide cutter. Plan ahead so that you do not have to slow down as you go through tight spots, such as an inside corner. We suggest a few practice runs on a scrap piece. Coarse shavings indicate the proper feed rate.

Wood screws work well, but drilling pilot holes is absolutely essential. Size the holes so they are just slightly bigger than the shaft (but less than the outside edge of the thread). Insert screws slowly so they don’t snap or overheat. Be careful about touching screw heads immediately after they are inserted; the metal may be hot.

PaperStone can also be tapped to accommodate threaded fasteners or threaded inserts. Fasteners can be press-fit or cast in place with an epoxy compound.

Plan seams so that they are not next to sinks. To join countertop sections, use this process:

1. On a sturdy, level surface, set out spacer bars of uniform thickness and place the countertop sections on them. Between the slabs, leave a gap slightly less than the width of a straight-edge router bit.
2. Clamp on a sturdy straightedge to use as a fence and run the router down the opening, so that the bit shaves off a thin section of both edges at once. This will create edges that mate perfectly.
3. Then set up for mechanical strengthening and aligning of the joint. There are two options:

• Cut slots for standard wooden "biscuits," using a biscuit jointer.
• Or rout out the necessary holes for the type of tight-joint fasteners typically used to connect sections of laminate countertop.

4. Glue the joint using a slow-drying, two-part epoxy. Tint the epoxy by mixing in some of the sanding dust from the countertop. Once the joint has cured, lightly sand it to blend the seam with the surrounding area.

It's also possible to seal joints with standard caulking sealants. Typical areas for this treatment are the underside of the backsplash and around under-mounted sinks. Use a moderate amount of caulk in a color compatible with the countertop.

Paperstone does not need be sanded, however if a smoother than factory finish is desired, sand the surface as evenly as possible. PaperStone is made from sheets of paper that have been impregnated with resin and pressed together. Uneven sanding could expose different layers, leading to a mottled look with concentric circles.

It is highly recommended that all colors other than Obsidian, NOT be sanded. Simply buff with purple synthetic steel wool followed by red synthetic steel wool. If you choose to sand use a random orbital sander with sandpaper no coarser than 100 grit. Finish with 180-200 grit. Buff with purple or red synthetic steel wool. Stop when desired look is achieved.

We recommend sealing new countertops with Paperstone finish. Re-apply several times the first month. After that, the number of reapplications depends on the look you want. Paperstone cleaner and rejuvinator should be used as a maintenance product around high traffic areas such as sinks, apply as needed.